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30th January 2023

Portland

Dorset's hidden gems

Our favourite anchorages to visit from Portland and Weymouth

Portland and Weymouth are the perfect jumping off point for boating adventures further afield, be it France, Channel Islands or the West Country, but what about if you’re just looking for a day or weekend trip locally? We're situated on the UNESCO World Heritage protected Jurassic Coast and many hidden gems are tucked away in the nooks and crannies of this stunningly beautiful coastline.

If you’re fed up with crowded Solent anchorages and looking for a bit of peace and quiet away from the hustle and bustle, here’s our five favourites east of Portland Bill as chosen by our team;

Chosen by Jon Eads, Dorset General Manager

Studland Bay

A well-known anchorage, Studland Bay has been the subject of much discussion over the past few years due to the no-anchoring zone set up in the western end of the bay to protect and regenerate the eel grass which provides a home for the local population of seahorses. There is still plenty of space to anchor, although boats are encouraged to pick up one of the eco-moorings installed in 2021 as a joint venture between boatfolk and The Seahorse Trust. Currently there are only 10 moorings, but funding has now been secured for around 20 further moorings which are expected to be installed in 2023 and it is hoped the project will continue to grow over time.

Whilst Studland Bay is a popular destination for boats arriving from both east and west, it is still less crowded than some of The Solent’s favourite spots such as Newtown Creek which is positively heaving on a sunny summers day! The chalk cliffs and Old Harry Rocks to the west provide excellent shelter from the prevailing wind and on still mornings are fun to explore by paddle board. The crystal clear water offers great snorkelling and diving, you might even spot a long snouted seahorse! The Seahorse Trust welcomes reports of sightings and you can do this online - The Seahorse Trust

Top tip: Avoid the weedy patches and drop your anchor on a sand for good holding. 

"Studland and Shell Bay in my opinion is one of the finest anchorages along the entire South Coast.  With stunning sandy beaches and a well-protected bay, this is a wonderful place to anchor overnight.  The adjoining land is owned and managed by the National Trust and there is a great café / bar on the beach front together with the ‘Bankes Arms’ nearby.  There is nothing better than drinking a cold beer whilst admiring your boat, safely at anchor in the bay.  A regular haunt and easy to reach."

Chosen by Bee Woodland, Assistant Manager

Chapman's Pool

Chapman’s Pool is tucked into a corner of the coast just west of St Aldhelm’s head, so those sailing past are often completely oblivious to its existence. There’s nothing here aside from an abandoned coastguard and lifeboat station and though some intrepid walkers do make it down to the beach, it’s much quieter than the more accessible beaches further along the Purbeck coast. You can retrace the hikers’ steps up to Worth Matravers where you’ll find the famous Square and Compass pub with its quirky touches (look out for the dog on the roof), excellent local brews and fossil museum. The path is a bit on the steep side, so best not to sample too many of the pub’s produce before walking back! The coastal path also affords gorgeous views along the coast between Old Harry’s Rocks and Portland. The solitude of this anchorage is what attracts many to this spot and you can easily fill your days with snorkelling, paddle boarding and swimming or just relaxing on the foredeck with a good book and watching the world go by!

Top tip: Unless you can tuck into the north eastern corner close in to the beach, stay south of the old coastguard building to avoid the reef that runs across the middle of pool.

"I’ve sailed this coast all my life and moved to Portland five years ago, but I only discovered Chapman’s Pool in 2021 when sailing with a friend from Dartmouth to the Hamble on her Warrior 40. Last summer I took my own boat in there and spent a week paddle boarding, snorkelling and swimming and BBQ-ing on the beach, it was utter bliss!"

Chosen by Paul Swain, Marina Manager

Worbarrow Bay

This wide bay actually has two anchorages, Warbarrow Tout and Mupe Bay, at either end which are well protected by rocks and ledges giving shelter in everything but a southerly wind direction. Like Chapman’s Pool, it’s a stunning secluded bay, possibly the most picturesque along this stretch of coast. Ashore there’s just an old coastguard hut and fishing slipway and a deserted village a reasonably easy 15 minute walk away alongside the forest. Tyneham Village was evacuated by the Government during WWII to create a training area for the D-Day landings and was never repopulated. Today you can explore the abandoned buildings including the old school house which still has the names of the children above their pegs. The firing range is active and both Worbarrow Bay and Tyneham Village, as well as the coastal path which runs through the range, are only accessible when there is no firing, usually there is none over weekends and the summer holidays.

The seabed shelves steeply off the beach here so you can tuck right in, which makes for a nice short row or swim ashore!

Top tip: In light winds, make sure you’re anchored well off the seaward rocks to avoid swinging too close when the katabatic winds come down off the cliffs in the early morning.

“I have many a fond memory of beach BBQ’s at Worbarrow with Portland Yacht Club or family and friends. Looking out at the boats swinging at anchor so close to the beach, beer in hand and BBQ sizzling, just perfection!”

Chosen by Liz Rowden, Marina Administrator

Lulworth Cove

Unless you’re looking for it, you could easily sail past Lulworth Cove, totally unaware of the boats moored snugly inside. Small, but perfectly formed, the cove has a narrow entrance and then widens out into a circular bay with a beach and small jetty and the village nestled into the hills behind. To the western side is a jetty and moorings for local boats. Well sheltered in most wind directions, a bit of swell does tend to sneak in as the entrance faces almost due south, but not enough to cause too much rolling. A fair few visiting boats will head in for lunch and be off again by evening, allowing a more peaceful air to descend on the cove.

In the summer the village is busy with day trippers and visitors from the nearby holiday park coming to see the famous Durdle Door arch, but if you’d rather avoid the leg burning, sharply undulating path across the cliffs, it’s only a short trip round from Lulworth Cove by paddle board or dinghy. Swimming through the Durdle Door arch is a definite must-do for the more adventurous; the water is crystal clear and deep as the shingle beach drops steeply into the sea. The village may be quaint and have the feel of a bygone era, but has good facilities with a general store, tourist information, public loos, café and pub.

Top tip: Avoid the foul ground just inside the entrance on the eastern side and be ready for the occasional squally wind dropping down the cliffs overnight.

"My partner and I love sailing to Lulworth Cove on a beautiful sunny day and dropping the anchor for the day or sometimes overnight. We often row ashore for a bit of fossil hunting with the dog or jump in the kayak to explore the surrounding coastline. It’s a great place to swim, go for a walk and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere whilst taking in the picturesque scenery."

Chosen by Mike Winter, Night Berthing Master

Church Ope Cove

Situated on the eastern side of Portland and well protected from the prevailing winds, Church Ope Cove is a true hidden gem. Mostly used by divers or as a temporary anchorage to await a fair tide to round the Bill, in fair weather it makes for a delightful spot away from the crowds. The beach is made of limestone pebbles resulting in clear turquoise waters perfect for swimming and snorkelling. Beach huts line the back of the beach and up the cliff on the northern side of the cove and it’s a popular spot with locals but is as yet undiscovered by most visitors.

A section of the South West Coastal Path runs around Portland and passes across the back of Church Ope Cove behind the beach huts and, once you’ve make the heart pumping climb out of the cove at either end, the path meanders along with stunning views down the coast towards Poole. A steep flight of steps in the north-western corner pops you out at a lookout area and the ruins of Rufus Castle; turn left and take the footpath up to Wakeham village with Portland Museum and The Hayloft café at Pennsylvania Castle. Shops, cafes and pubs can also be found in Easton village a 20 minute walk away.

Top Tip: Avoid the rockier areas on either side of the cove and drop your hook in the middle around the 5 metre contour line on sand for the best holding.

"Church Ope Cove is possibly my favourite place to anchor up for lunch. It's well sheltered in a south westerly which is the prevailing wind."

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